BIKES!

[TranquillityBase]

My avatar says it all!

I don't care if it's daytime, nighttime, dry, cold, hot, windy, raining, snowing, sleeting, or the middle of the armageddon - there's no way I'm going to skip a day riding into work on my motorcycle.

Here in Milwaukee, provided you live in the actual city, and not the burbs, motorcycle is faster than the "S" (aka single speed bicycle) and driving, you get to park right in front of your building, it's free, and it gets 45MPG. And it keeps (or gets) you in shape. And it's one less car on the road. And it's fun! AND you can use a FLASHLIGHT on it at night!

I know we all have a lot to talk about, from types of motorcycles we all ride, why we love to motorcycle, and... to motorcycle lights (this is CPF Green, after all).

Let's hear from all you motorcyclists!

[Darell]

Tranquility... though the title of the thread is "bikes" we're definitely all about human-power here. Feel free to start a new thread for motorcycles.

[TranquillityBase]

Sorry Darell...

My post was tongue-in-cheek to jch79...I'm all about the bicycle, right down to hand building my own frames.

[Darell]

Originally Posted by TranquillityBase

Sorry Darell...

My post was tongue-in-cheek to jch79...I'm all about the bicycle, right down to hand building my own frames.

I thought that might be the case, but wasn't sure. I'm easily confused.

[jch79]

I make the guy an avatar, and this is the thanks I get...

It's true that Scott builds his own frames - I've had the pleasure of seeing a couple of 'em, and they're beauties! I keep trying to Scott to build a Ti bike frame...

john

[jtr1962]

After 14 months (!) my airless tires finally came. I posted this review in my airless tire thread on CPF but I'll also post it here for the benefit of those who frequent this forum. These are what I ordered, customized with the maximum 175 psi option. While I consider the customer service totally unsatisfactory so far I’m pretty impressed with the tires. While I’ll undoubtedly have further comments as I get more experience, here’s my take after the first ~250 miles:

Ride quality: At first the ride seemed somewhat harsh. I literally felt every imperfection in the road. However, the tires started to feel smoother a few days later. Perhaps the material flexing broke in much as a new shoe takes time to break in before it’s comfortable. Whatever the reason, at this point the tires aren’t horribly worse than pneumatics as far as ride quality goes. On smooth roads they’re great. On potholed roads they’re rough but then so are 110 psi pneumatics. They certainly sound noisier over bumps so they may give the impression of riding much harder than they really do. I don’t find significantly more shock transmitted through the handlebars than I did with pneumatics.

Traction: When I was putting together my bike I noticed that I could slide the front wheel on a vinyl tile floor. I attributed this to the mold release. Just as a precaution, I removed the excess material along the seam with a utility knife. This increased the traction. On the road traction is as good as any air tire, and should only get better as the tire picks up road grit. I feel perfectly safe on these tires, even riding in rush hour traffic.

Fit and ease of mounting: The tires went on fairly easily, and perfectly fit my rims. I highly doubt the tires will roll off no matter what I do.

Rolling resistance: Just as I noted regarding ride quality, I’d say these tires need to break in for a few hundred miles at least to realize their ultimate potential. After only about 50 miles rolling resistance decreased notably. Also note that these tires required the skewers to be tighter in order to keep the wheels from shifting over hard bumps. Prior to tightening the skewers the wheel moved enough to cause the brakes to slightly rub. I wonder how many others this happened to and they attributed the increased rolling resistance to the tire instead of the brake rubbing? Anyway, since the rims and drivetrain are new on this bike and need to be broken in, I can’t say for sure how the rolling resistance compares to pneumatics. After about 120 miles the bike was about 1.5 mph slower but a good portion of this could easily be attributable to the wheel bearings still breaking in as well as the chain/ratchet mechanism/bottom bracket still being stiff compared to my other bike. Now after 250 miles the rolling resistance seems to be even less. I really do think the airless tires have a somewhat long break-in period before they develop their minimal rolling resistance. Maybe the extra psi option does help rolling resistance considerably also compared to the stock psi. As the tires wear into the optimum shape from riding I’m sure this will help the rolling resistance even more. One thing to note which I mentioned earlier was that pneumatics more or less double in rolling resistance going from 80°F down to 40°F while the airless tires either decrease or stay the same (honestly, it seems so far they stay the same although others have said they roll better at lower speeds). Regardless, at some temperature airless tires will be as good or better than pneumatics. Although such tests are inherently difficult, I've roughly estimated the Crr of my airless tires to be in the 0.008 area. This isn't that much worse than even the best pneumatics, and right around where many touring tires are. And it's better than most MTB tires or heavy, flat-resistant tires.

So here's the overal grading comparing to pneumatics:

Ride quality:

Airless: B+ (slightly harsh over smaller bumps but not overly so, no squishy feel like pneumatics)
Pneumatics: A- (pretty smooth overall but sometimes "squishy" when you rise in the saddle)

Traction:

Airless: A
Pneumatics: A

No significant differences here

Fit and ease of mounting:

Airless: B+ (kind of a pain to mount but fit perfectly, must choose tire size matched to your rim width)
Pneumatics: A- (more forgiving of rim width and usually easy to mount)

Rolling resistance:

Airless: B+ (somewhat to significantly more than pneumatics depending upon tire choice, high rebound material solves these problems but not available for all tire sizes)
Pneumatics: A- (can be as low as Crr 0.004 but rolling resistance increases at low temperatures and depends upon keeping the tire properly inflated)

Ease of use:

Airless: A+ (no maintenance whatsoever once tire is mounted)
Pneumatics: B (requires occasionally topping off for optimal performance)

Flat resistance:

Airless: A+ (by definition you can't get flats)
Pneumatics: C (note this is based on my own personal experience, while methods exist to lessen flats they ALL increase weight or rolling resistance, and you still need to keep the tire properly inflated).

Weight:

Airless: A- (while my tires aren't any heavier than comparable air tires some models are)
Pneumatics: A

Lifespan:

Airless: A (by most accounts the model tire I bought will last at least 8,000 miles, some with the new high-rebound material have lasted over 27,000 miles)
Pneumatics: B (most tires last 3000 miles or less unless they have a heavy, high-rolling resistance tread)

Rim Protection:

Airless: B+
Pneumatics: B+

Despite what others have said, after 250 miles my wheels are still perfectly true and undented. However, I'll grant that over a really severe pothole I will get rim damage but then again I'll also get it with pneumatics. Hence my grade of B+ for both.

Really, the only issues with airless tires at this point are higher rolling resistance for some models and in some cases a slightly harsher ride. They match or exceed pneumatics in every other area.

Other than the horrid customer service there are no show stoppers to using these tires. From what I read you'll get much better customer service ordering the tires directly from the manufacturer (nu-teck.com) rather than airfreetires.com but you will pay more. I can only hope by the time these tires are worn out that there will be an even greater selection of these tires, and that the 700c narrow tires will be available in the new high-rebound material. A high pressure high-rebound tire would have less rolling resistance than most air tires.

Some pics of the tires being mounted:

http://i91.photobucket.com/albums/k3...H/PA230202.jpg

http://i91.photobucket.com/albums/k3...H/PA230203.jpg

http://i91.photobucket.com/albums/k3...H/PA230204.jpg

Link to album with all Raleigh rebuild pictures

[norm]

Finally finished off my Ebike 350 Watt motor 4 X 12 Volt 7 Ah batteries. Top speed on the flat about 40 KPH.



Original thread over here http://www.cpfgreen.com/vb/showpost....02&postcount=7

[GreenBGOak629]

I ran across this bike on the internet and I just had to post it on here. Though it is based on an old concept it just never seemed to take off...until maybe now. It is awesome!!

Of course I am speaking of the Bamboo Bike.

http://www.calfeedesign.com/bamboo.htm

The bike's are almost completely made from all natural products versus the standard carbon fibre of most modern day bikes.

Here is the link for those interested in trying to build there own bamboo bicycle.

http://www.instructables.com/id/How-...amboo-Bicycle/

[manoloco]

I really like riding a bike to work, as mentioned, its clean, efficient, and free!, i have seen posts on other forums that ridiculously try to convince others that fuel efficiency is not that great because you have to eat more...

i eat less

More relaxation, less anxiety, less food, i didnt even notice and i thought it wouldnt happen to me, but i did ate a bit more because of stress, i noticed it more after using the bike to commute.

my commute is around 12 miles (6+6), i dont get too tired, just change shirts and freshen up as i arrive, incredibly i even arrive earlier than when i used my car.

it takes me just 10 more minutes than using the car, and on days with a lot of traffic it may be faster.

Some of the factors that prevented me from starting sooner (none valid now that i opened my eyes):

-Thought i would get tired.-

this is from my experience when i was a little kid, i had a steel BMX bike that was too big for me, with really fat tires, bad brakes and bad transmission)

-Thought sweat would be bad.-

This commute doesnt make me sweat copiously, and i can clean very easily and fast at my job

-Was afraid of riding along motor vehicles.-

You have to be careful of course, and not try to speed too much in very transited areas, i just cruise, with all my senses alert, as soon as i get to the coast line, its a breeze, and a beatiful place to ride.

-Thought it would take me too much transit time.-

Like i said, just 10 minutes more... and its faster than car on very busy days

All became lame excuses, ON THE FIRST DAY!

i have already convinced 3 coworkers, 2 are using their bikes and one is buying one; one advice: use a road bike, its a pleasure to commute on them, other bikes might do the job, but a roadie is wonderfully efficient at it.

I am currently using my father´s bike, i want to buy one for my self, he says he wont be using the one he gave me, but i want him to have it just in case he just feels like it or for when he feels better (he has osteoporosis and is a bit afraid of falling now, he is getting better with his treatment).

The ones i like are very expensive here (Peru), like almost twice than the prices i am seeing for the same model and brand in USA , i have a shimano SIS on the roadie i use, i would love to try a proper roadbike groupset; still its fun looking at all the bikes until i find a good one used for a nice price.

[chimo]

I love cycle commuting to work (approx 15km), however, work had me doing lots of travel this year so I only got about half the distance as last year. I'm barely to 2000km this year. My work travel is over for this year, however, the morning commutes are starting to get a little cool (~ -4C / 25F). Haven't had my water bottle freeze (yet) this year. Hopefully I can get a few more weeks in before the snow flies.

On an side note, I saw some interesting belt-drive commuters (Trek) at a local bike shop this summer. Looks like they would reduce maintenance on those wet, grimy days. I noticed the belt did not feel as efficient as a chain.

Paul

[Darell]

Ooh. I see I haven't updated my bike collection in a while! I took delivery of my custom steel road bike this summer, and have been LOVING it. A bit heavier than my carbon road bike for sure, but the ride is soooo smooth, that I really can't stand riding the carbon bike any longer... and it is for sale.

Here's the bike, in green of course.


A bit more on it here:
http://darelldd.com/bicycle/rex.html

This was ordered (but not paid for) way back when we had some income. Ug.

[Brian McBlain]

Another take on the Bamboo Bike along with renewable hardwoods:

http://www.renovobikes.com/



To save gas, I converted an old Schwinn Road bike (big: 62 cm, nice 4020 lugged frame) to an errand bike and hopefully, at some point, it will be a commuter bike with my laptop on the front rack. A new cargo bike would take decades for me to pay off as an errand bike only.

It isn't pretty, but the cargo aspect was about $100, the wheel/tire/drivetrain and fenders was another $200 (old rims were bent and had to go anyway), but it has recouped 20% of its cost after only a couple of months of errand use (no commuting). Sure beats a backpack and my other bike. One driver stopped and said he liked my pannier solution.

I have a cell phone pic with my first (not completely full) grocery haul for Columbus Day (Canadian Thanksgiving) complete with a frozen turkey. I suppose there are guidelines here somewhere for adding pics?

[manoloco]

Well, i had the bad luck to cross the street while an old man (76) with mr magoo glasses, and bad hearing didnt quite see me and hit me.

I was on the preferential road, and him in an intersection, he probably doesnt see well as he only reacted with the brakes when i was about to finish crossing.

luckily he wasnt speeding but clearly his decision to cross the road while i was on the other side wasnt any lucky either.

the car caught me on the left side, the bike got stuck on the fender and i flew over the bike and landed on my side and back ( good thing i was using a backpack).

after going to the clinic having some x-rays taken and being checked by the doctor it seems i dont have much more than a couple of scratches.

the person that hit me, incredibly says its my fault, and that cars have preference and i should have braked... also he said that his "fast" reactions saved my life????, i swear some people loose the blood on the face and goes all to their behind.

about the bike: the front aluminum rim got totally bent, the forks seem a tiny bit misaligned, other parts seem fine. is it ok to just change the front wheel, align the fork and change the front brakes and continue using the bike?

He doesnt even want to pay for it, a bike that isnt mine to begin with, its my father´s and now i have to pay for it, and i wanted to buy a bike for myself, so now im only left on fixing his or buying him a new one... at least his bike is not so expensive.

i want to start a process to this person but its more expensive than the bike itself.

I will definitely continue cycling, more carefully of course, but i need some advice on what to do with the bike, would the frame and other parts be ok?, or should i get another bike?

also has anybody been through the same? i would be very grateful on some advice please.

[Darell]

Sure sorry to hear this! Have you filed a police report? If nothing else, he should be cited. I'm not sure if this was a controlled intersection or what the markings were. Of course NOBODY has the right of way just due to the vehicle they are piloting. It is everybody's responsibility not to hit anybody else regardless of the circumstances.

But anyway... to the bike: What is the frame made of? You'll need a new wheel, and likely a new fork. the rest of the bike should be fine as long as you give it a thorough inspection. I'm least concerned with steel. More with Al, and even WAY more with carbon. But doesn't sound like a carbon bike!

[Brian McBlain]

Originally Posted by manoloco

Well, i had the bad luck to cross the street while an old man (76) with mr magoo glasses, and bad hearing didnt quite see me and hit me.

I was on the preferential road, and him in an intersection, he probably doesnt see well as he only reacted with the brakes when i was about to finish crossing.

luckily he wasnt speeding but clearly his decision to cross the road while i was on the other side wasnt any lucky either.

the car caught me on the left side, the bike got stuck on the fender and i flew over the bike and landed on my side and back ( good thing i was using a backpack).

after going to the clinic having some x-rays taken and being checked by the doctor it seems i dont have much more than a couple of scratches.

the person that hit me, incredibly says its my fault, and that cars have preference and i should have braked... also he said that his "fast" reactions saved my life????, i swear some people loose the blood on the face and goes all to their behind.

about the bike: the front aluminum rim got totally bent, the forks seem a tiny bit misaligned, other parts seem fine. is it ok to just change the front wheel, align the fork and change the front brakes and continue using the bike?

He doesnt even want to pay for it, a bike that isnt mine to begin with, its my father´s and now i have to pay for it, and i wanted to buy a bike for myself, so now im only left on fixing his or buying him a new one... at least his bike is not so expensive.

i want to start a process to this person but its more expensive than the bike itself.

I will definitely continue cycling, more carefully of course, but i need some advice on what to do with the bike, would the frame and other parts be ok?, or should i get another bike?

also has anybody been through the same? i would be very grateful on some advice please.

Dang! (Hope that expletive passes our rules)

Been there. Have the scars to show for it.

I assume the driver was not charged for the accident. He is not remourseful, at any rate.

You need someone knowledgeable to check the bike over thoroughly. By your description of it being a less expensive bike I assume it has a steel frame. Still, the torque of twisting the bike when you were still in the saddle can bend the rear rim, axle, or the stays. Sometimes this can be subtle and not obvious to the casual observer.

Fixing or riding a 'tiny bit misalligned fork' can have very serious consequences. If it is steel, it MIGHT be fixed if a knowledgeable person made sure it can be done safely. A fork failure at speed is going to cause a rider serious damage and could be fatal. I assume you like your father.

If the driver was in the accident was at fault, and he can be made to pay, then your dad's bike should be returned to the condition it was before the accident, if not a better condition, which would mean a new fork.

Good luck, and you just had a lesson in why defensive riding is so important.

A healthy dose of paranoia is a good thing in a cyclist.

[manoloco]

Thanks Darell for the advice, im in the process of filing my version, theres already a police report from the officer that came to the scene, i alredy did the drug and alcohol test, and pending is the revision of my bike from the officers to verify the damage, with that document i can file my version of the accident. still i have to spend in that revision and thats a bit unfair.

the bike: the frame is an steel alloy, not sure if its CroMoly but very likely.

carbon? i wish!! afraid i cant afford it, if i the camera i usually borrow is available i will take some pics of the bike, i really need help determining the damage as my father and I will probably continue using it, of course its nothing like the ones you have shown, its an older frame with budget parts, it even has a heart in the frame (like those old deRosa bikes, but this one is clearly a copy of less quality).

i would love to keep cycling asap, but if i fix it by my expense then this person will never pay me or recognize the damage, such are the joys of living here.

i will probably save for another bike starting with my next paycheck, so if something happens i still can keep cycling with the backup, im torn however in buying another cheap bike or take a little bit longer to save more and buy a decent one but i want to be cycling right now.

[Brian McBlain]

Good that your father will be involved with the repair.

Aluminum or carbon forks are not repairable, as Darrell said.

I was given a Cromoly bike missing a few essential pieces, with bent wheels, rear axle and hub, and a 'slightly misalligned' fork.

I was able to cold set the bent blade in the steel fork, but it was only 1 cm behind the other. I have a soft spot for big framed bikes that fit me. And a desire to recycle old bikes.

Method: I used (neither recommended nor advised against, just a report):
I thoroughly inspected the fork blades to make sure that they were not bent out or in sideways. If either or both have been, I would not consider a repair. Too dangerous. You must for safety reasons, replace the fork.

I was lucky. Both of my forks's blades were in line side to side, so then I checked for cracked or wrinkled paint that might be buckled or cracked metal particularly near the crown and where the sweep of the fork towards the wheel starts. A backward force would concentrate in these spots. I found no obvious signs of deformed or cracked steel. There could still be cracks, but steel tends to fail slowly and I am keeping a watch. I suppose if one had access to a magniflux machine then cracks could be detected, I did not try that.

I set the bike on its back (I have no bike stand) resting on its handle bar and seat. I placed a bolt into the fork dropouts so it rested on the top (now bottom) of the dropout slots. This bolt will be exactly parallel with the fork crown IF the fork blades are in line. By sighting down over the bolt to the front edge of the crown, you can determine how much the trailing fork blade is out of line, IF the crown has a defined horizontal feature. In the case of an arched fork crown, you may need to accurately place tape to make such a reference line. My fork's crown had a horizontal bottom and the right blade placed the bolt 1 cm behind the left. Make note of which blade is back.

Remove the fork from the frame (some bikes have loose headset bearings so this must be done carefully preferably over a tarp to make reclaiming of the balls that fall between your fingers easier, or you will need to buy some new bearings, too). If the bearings are in cages, this is easy. The stem may have frozen in the steering tube. Google for solutions.

I lined my vise's jaws with hardwood with vee's cut into the faces (hardwood flooring scraps) to grip the steering tube better. It was clamped with the crown just clearing the top of the vise. The steering tube has thicker and stonger walls there, but care must be taken not to bend or dent the steering tube, you need it firmly clamped, not crushed. With the fork firmly in the vise, a wooden lever like a 2" x 4" (in metric 37 mm x 87 mm) about a meter long, made of softwood that won't scratch the paint, is placed to push back on the crook of the leading blade and forward on the trailing one. The fork's blades will spring back after each time they are moved by the lever and the lever is released. So the lever is used, then the fork checked, then used again a bit further, and checked, until a bolt lying in the dropouts lines up parallel to the crown. Once that is achieved, the fork blades are even and the fork ends need to be checked for alignment.

My backyard method for fork end alignment (since I don't have the Campagnolo tool), is two bolts with two nuts and washers each. Each bolt goes in each dropout so that the treaded bolt ends touch in the middle and are each bolt is held by its own nut-washer-dropout-washer-nut 'sandwich'. If the droupout are in line, the bolts will be in line like they are a single axle. If not, they will form a shallow 'vee'. Comparing each bolt to the crown will determine whether one, or both bolts are parallel to the crown, and so whether either or both dropouts is at right angles to the crown.

Make notes of which ends need to be turned to make the bolts paralel and how much and in which way. Remove the bolts. A large adjustable wrench will adjust down to hold the fork ends in its jaws and allow the dropout to be twisted. This is done a little bit then rechecked with the bolts until the bolts are in line. Recheck that the single bolt across the dropouts is parallel to the crown, if so you are done if not, you repeat. Mount a good front wheel in the fork while it is in the vise with the axle just resting on the top (currently bottom) of the dropouts. It should be centered side to side in the fork, near the crown. If not, something remains out of line, check to see that the blade tips are equidistant from the centerline of the fork, if they aren't the fork is bent sideways and you missed catching that and all the allignment work was a nice exercise, but he fork is history.

Front alignment can be tricky and the first test rides need to be done with care. Don't forget to make sure the wheel is firmly attached and brakes working properly before the test ride. It is surprisingly easy to get excited and ahead of yourself and the result of forgetting is usually not good.

I am not advising you to do what I did. I am not saying that this is a good idea. I am saying that I am getting away with it so far. Discuss it with Dad.

[manoloco]

Originally Posted by Brian McBlain

Dang! (Hope that expletive passes our rules)

Been there. Have the scars to show for it.

I assume the driver was not charged for the accident. He is not remourseful, at any rate.

You need someone knowledgeable to check the bike over thoroughly. By your description of it being a less expensive bike I assume it has a steel frame. Still, the torque of twisting the bike when you were still in the saddle can bend the rear rim, axle, or the stays. Sometimes this can be subtle and not obvious to the casual observer.

Fixing or riding a 'tiny bit misalligned fork' can have very serious consequences. If it is steel, it MIGHT be fixed if a knowledgeable person made sure it can be done safely. A fork failure at speed is going to cause a rider serious damage and could be fatal. I assume you like your father.

If the driver was in the accident was at fault, and he can be made to pay, then your dad's bike should be returned to the condition it was before the accident, if not a better condition, which would mean a new fork.

Good luck, and you just had a lesson in why defensive riding is so important.

A healthy dose of paranoia is a good thing in a cyclist.

Thanks Brian, i dont know how i didnt see your post before!

yeah, things happen even when you have checked and are used to anticipate things, sometimes you have a preset mindset, and that sometimes backfires, you need to keep a preset mindset and an open to reaction mind at the same time.

luck has i dont have any scars (except tiny ones) the backpack definitely helped a LOT, it absorbed most of the shock, still i will surely be more careful, i will follow your advice and have the bike checked by someone with experience, after all someday my father might want to use it, and i dont want him to get hurt in any way at all.

[Brian McBlain]

OK lets see if this works.

Errand bike.

Here is a 1985 Schwinn double butted Chromoly lugged frame bike (Taiwan made) converted to grocery and errand duty using an old cooler for the frozen stuff or in winter stuff you don't want frozen. With new waste basket panniers and laundry basket rear basket. Home made aluminum Porteur rack and Wald chrome steel rear rack (USA, Wow!) were $100: the price of a cheap rear pannier set alone.

Bent 27" wheels with steel hubs replaced with 700C alloy hubs and cassette allowing fenders and 35 mm Michelin City Tires with reflector side walls for load carrying and softer ride. Reflective tape on panniers now.



LBS supplied me with a worn out 144 BCD 52 T front sprocket I de-toothed and polished as a chain guard. Replaced a too-fragile plastic guard I fashioned. Was 2 x 6 speed 48/42 x 14-28 now a 42 x 11-34, 1 x 9 for simpler gear selection and pant leg friendliness. More useful ratios (9 vs 8). Yes I have been in 42-11 and loaded with apples and cider (the bike, not me) the 42-34, up a grade into the wind (large windage, NOT a streamliner at all).

[manoloco]

Guys i need your help again, i found what seems a nice bike at a reasonable price, but need your opinions on the subject.

interesting thing is the frame seems to be good for my height and inseam (i am 5´6" and inseam 30") that frame is 53cms.

and i like how it looks, i did visit this bike a few days ago, seems to be okay, except little dots of rust inside the part of the frame that connects with the seat post (where it usually rusts first) but being a 1982 bike its in reasonably good condition, and has a set of nice mavic rims.

here is the page of the bike sale

http://www.kotear.pe/aviso/3565118-b...-miyata-lemans


If its a good catch i hope i can still find it this weekend, it would make a nice self-gift for my bday (today), also consider that bikes in Peru are more expensive than in USA, so the price might seem a bit steep for a bike from 1982

thanks!

[Brian McBlain]

As an owner of three bikes 1975-1986, I did a little research the Japanese (Nishiki) and Taiwanese (Schwinn) bikes in teh US and they are a bit cheaper ($150-$200 here in excellent condition). The rims and tire size on the Miyata bike shown indicate a higher quality bike, assuming the frame and the rest of the components are of the same level and someone didn't just fit new wheels. In excellent condition here, it would be about that much money and maybe $350 depending on components, paint qualtiy etc. The amount of rust is critical, though. A little slag from brazing or surface rust for a few drops of moisture in the BB is one thing, but agressive corrosion and imminent rust through is a deal breaker.

IMHO it appears to be fairly priced assuming the rust has done no harm and can be stopped. Check that the stem and seat tube have not rusted in place, as you are likely going to need to adjust them and if they are frozen, that is a sign of neglect and they can be extremely difficult to remove, if severe. Figure new brake pads, cables, and cleaning and regreasing all bearings so you can catch anything about to go, and set up your maintenance schedule.

[manoloco]

Originally Posted by Brian McBlain

As an owner of three bikes 1975-1986, I did a little research the Japanese (Nishiki) and Taiwanese (Schwinn) bikes in teh US and they are a bit cheaper ($150-$200 here in excellent condition). The rims and tire size on the Miyata bike shown indicate a higher quality bike, assuming the frame and the rest of the components are of the same level and someone didn't just fit new wheels. In excellent condition here, it would be about that much money and maybe $350 depending on components, paint qualtiy etc. The amount of rust is critical, though. A little slag from brazing or surface rust for a few drops of moisture in the BB is one thing, but agressive corrosion and imminent rust through is a deal breaker.

IMHO it appears to be fairly priced assuming the rust has done no harm and can be stopped. Check that the stem and seat tube have not rusted in place, as you are likely going to need to adjust them and if they are frozen, that is a sign of neglect and they can be extremely difficult to remove, if severe. Figure new brake pads, cables, and cleaning and regreasing all bearings so you can catch anything about to go, and set up your maintenance schedule.

Thanks Brian!, about the wheels: the owner seems to be very honest and straight forward, and told me he did upgrade the wheels at a later time in ownership, the seatpost came out cleanly, wasnt stuck at all.

still there are little orange dots but not much, another question: i didnt try this bike as the wheels were not inflated, are this kind of bikes nice to ride?, fast?, smooth? compared to today road bikes of course.

[Brian McBlain]

Found a Miyata with a price (second bike down the page):

http://www.boxdogbikes.com/blog/?p=334

Bear in mind the above bike is in excellent almost unridden condition. I also read that the Miyata lineup was more expensive and more inspected than Sekine or Nishiki bikes of the same period. I don't know how well-informed that opinion was, but as a cyclist in that era, who bought a new mid-high level Nishiki for my spouse, that was my impression.

Japanese bikes of this era from these better manufacturers were very well made and are much sought after. You can buy new Single Speed bikes here for $500. Not in the same league, but that does tend to depress prices for conversion of an old bike to single speed. So $500 for a used Miyata speaks well of it.

The bike you are considering is not in almost new condition, and it appears that it is not a top line hand-built model. But a mid model of Miyata would be comparable to a mid-high model Nishiki according to that same source.

As to ride, it appears to have the longer chain stays of the touring style frames that were popular then, and slightly less steep seat tube, so I would hazard a pretty safe guess that as far as the frame goes, it should ride sweetly. A well made steel bike frame is considered by many as the ride standard and there was almost 50 years experience around the world and the Japanese were deft at taking the best ideas and methods and improving on them.

Narrow rims and tires are very sporty, but they were never intended to provide a nice ride. Chances are, the original rims and tires were a lot wider. If the current rims are 700C (622 mm) and wide enough, you may be able to fit 28 mm or even 32 mm tires without risking them peeling off the rim on corners. If the bike was originally had 27" rims (630 mm) and is now 700C, there should be room for these larger sized tires and fenders. I was able to fit 35 mm tires and fenders to my Schwinn errand bike to handle me and groceries (120kg +). It was converted from 27" to 700C wheels. If the Miyata was designed for 700C rims, and you want fenders you may be limited on tire size. Here, tire selection for the now obsolete 27" rim is very limited so I hope that the rims are 700C. By the way, old tires and tubes will need to be replaced anyway. Ozone and age ruins them. A front tire blow-out is no fun at all, and can cause serious injury. Old rubber is not trustworthy.

The rust concerns me. If this is merely surface rust where the paint has been chipped, then it is a cosmetic issue only. If it is rust from inside the frame that has erupted through the paint then the Bottom bracket area of the bike may be mostly rusted through and ready to break. Assuming the rest of the frame is fine, repairing the bottom bracket in a frame is at least a $100 job and few can do it here. It's likely the same for you. Water (and salt from sweat) can get in around the stem or the seat tube especially if left out in the rain. Other parts will show pitting or weathering especially leather seats and toe clip straps if left uncovered and tell you if that happened much giving a chance for water to get into the frame. The chromed steel of pedals is very prone to pitting if exposed much to weather. If only little specks then not exposed very much. If the chrome layer is all but covered in rust, that is not a good sign. Condensation from a bike being warmed and cooled repeatedly in unheated storage can cause water and rust in a bottom bracket, too. This takes longer though.

A proper inspection for rust in the bottom bracket requires the crankset be removed. Most sellers are going to be disinclined to do that. You will do that to service the bearings if you buy it, so you can accurately assess it then. However, that doesn't help you decide whether to buy it or walk away from it. If the paint is bubbled up, then rust has occurred behind the paint. This can occur beside a paint chip if the paint was cracked, but if it is bubbled in several places that is a bad sign. If the metal is solid pressing on the rust spots should feel as firm as where the paint is fine. If it 'gives' under pressure it is a very bad sign. Pressing the spots with a screwdriver would work, but I doubt the seller would be happy if you did find a bad spot and the screwdriver punched a hole. So I guess you will have to inspect carefully with fingers and if it feels good, then pray it is.

Hope this helps.

[manoloco]

Brian, man, thanks a lot, i wouldnt have come into such good info from searching and i really appreciate you sharing it.

i will revisit the bike, once again thanks a ton for the help!

[manoloco]

Update!

I have a bike now




blurry pic:



Its not a Colnago, its a repainted Peugeot frame from around 1989 with colnago stickers (previous owner must be a colnago fan), with newer parts, i ended up paying more ($320) but really like the result, and theres an abyss of difference between riding this and the other bike i was riding; i will post pics of it later, with the damage from the accident

i even like the color, its repainted, but i could see the bike completely dissasembled, and the frame is in great condition, the guy that sold it to me is a road cyclist that competes and has a small store, i guess thats what sold the bike to me more than the Miyata, that and the lack of rust; he even searched for an old frame of my size, and man thats the biggest difference you can feel from an off the rack store.

Very personalized service, i dont think its too overpriced too, considering its in good condition and prices for bikes in Peru are way more than other countries


peugeot frame Reynolds steel (i guess 501)
shimano front derailleur rx100
shimano 600 rear derailleur
cinelli top ergo 64 handlebar
3ttt stem
specialized and vittoria tyres
shimano biopace crankset

the rest of the parts are taiwanese (bitex hubs, action rims and spokes, sng levers and brakes)

the seatpost has an inscription (stronglight)
and the seat is probably chinese (team active)

i will be upgrading the bike gradually but nothing expensive, next on my list are the sti levers (probably shimano sora) since the bike is ready for them, and i will see how it goes with the rims and hubs, if they do good they will stay, if not will change to shimano or colnago

very happy with the bike, so far i have only tried it less than 30 min, its dark here and there are a lot of streets repairs, not to mention the traffic from christmas shoppers etc., will probably put the lights on it later and ride it in the morning.

thanks everyone for the help!!

[manoloco]

After trying the bike for a few days, including my daily commute to work and back, there are many positive things i have noticed about the new bike:

i dont know if its the biopace or the better transmision, or maybe the lighter weight, or maybe all of them, but i find i need to shift gears much less often than with the older bike.

the bike is way faster, probably has a lot to do with the higher pressure on these tyres.

overall its a nicer, easier, faster ride, no problems on comfort either.

took some time to clean the bike and pull out those colnago stickers (except for the club on the front which grew on me i dont know why), also calibrated both derailleurs and the front brake, very smooth now (it was good before but the biggest sprocket was making a bit of noise with the smaller chainring)

pics without stickers and a pic of the accident bike:

[Brian McBlain]

All the factors you mentioned will be part of the shifting-less phenomenon. Some are more important. An ounce off the wheels is the same as a pound off of the frame from an accelleration standpoint. Rolling reisistance of higher pressure tires is a much smaller effect than smaller lighter tires and rims.

Anther large effect comes from the wind resistance of the upper body with your old handlebars compared to road drop bars, particularly if you are riding on the drops. There is a reason why racers use this style of bar. However, it makes you less visible in traffic and for some, particularly as they age, it becomes uncomfortable. The general rule of thumb I heard is that there is 1-2 mph in the drop position, I assume on average, as it would be higher in headwinds and less even counterproductive with a good tailwind. I kept my drop bars and moved them higher so I could be up on the tops for visibility and comfort and somewhat down in the drops into high winds.

To paraphrase the friendly neighborhood Spiderman: With higher speed comes greater demands for defensive cycling. Take care. May your last incident be your last incident. Feliz Navidad and happy New Year.

[manoloco]

Originally Posted by Brian McBlain

All the factors you mentioned will be part of the shifting-less phenomenon. Some are more important. An ounce off the wheels is the same as a pound off of the frame from an accelleration standpoint. Rolling reisistance of higher pressure tires is a much smaller effect than smaller lighter tires and rims.

Anther large effect comes from the wind resistance of the upper body with your old handlebars compared to road drop bars, particularly if you are riding on the drops. There is a reason why racers use this style of bar. However, it makes you less visible in traffic and for some, particularly as they age, it becomes uncomfortable. The general rule of thumb I heard is that there is 1-2 mph in the drop position, I assume on average, as it would be higher in headwinds and less even counterproductive with a good tailwind. I kept my drop bars and moved them higher so I could be up on the tops for visibility and comfort and somewhat down in the drops into high winds.

To paraphrase the friendly neighborhood Spiderman: With higher speed comes greater demands for defensive cycling. Take care. May your last incident be your last incident. Feliz Navidad and happy New Year.

Wind resistance, how could i forget to mention it, yes its a big factor, in my daily commute there are a couple of spots where there are no cars and i can blast some speed, those are the only places where i use the drops, for all the other parts i ride on the brake hoods, still its a way more aerodynamic position that the one i used with the silver bike.

Thanks for the advice about being careful with the speed, its definitely something i do, you become more aware after an accident, sometimes even though i cross the street looking and being extra careful, i get kind of the feeling of when the car hit me on the accident, i think it will fade away fast as its not something that prevents me from cycling at all, i like that it makes me more careful though.

I have done some pretty stupid and risky stuff when i was younger, like riding on the back fender of buses and cars with the skateboard, or climbing without rope, luckily all the accidents i had have been soft on me, but helped me learn to be careful.

Feliz Navidad tambien y un prospero Año Nuevo!

[manoloco]

Have been enjoying the bike quite a bit,

Theres something everyone is telling me that i dont believe, everyone seems to thinks slicks dont adhere enought to the road, i differ, it feels way better than the threaded tyre on the silver bike, as bonus when the road is a little wet the slicks seem to catch less water and none get on my back; i also use a backpack but it always ends up clean besides the part that is touching my sweaty back , the only part that has water dots is the seatpost and the tail light.

Now on a different surface it would be a different story but a road bike is for the road.

[jtr1962]

Originally Posted by manoloco

Theres something everyone is telling me that i dont believe, everyone seems to thinks slicks dont adhere enought to the road, i differ, it feels way better than the threaded tyre on the silver bike, as bonus when the road is a little wet the slicks seem to catch less water and none get on my back; i also use a backpack but it always ends up clean besides the part that is touching my sweaty back , the only part that has water dots is the seatpost and the tail light.

It's an urban myth that slick tires are more slippery than treaded ones. Unfortunately, this is one of those urban myths that just won't die. I guess bicycle tire manufacturers can dupe those buying tires with all kinds of fancy tread patterns "designed for better speed or traction". Of course, any serious cyclist knows it's all BS, but it doesn't stop them from selling lots of tires to the uneducated masses.

BTW, I've been using these for the last 14 or so months. Besides having no tread, they also have no air! I have to say I've been duly impressed by them. Ride quality is only slightly harser than air tires, and rolling resistance might be slightly higher ( the jury is still out on that one ). Traction is just as good, durability actually seems superior. I'm never going back to pneumatic tires again. Flats used to be a several times a wek occurence for me. So nice never to have to worry about that any more.